Before parking your camper for the cold season, it’s vital to winterize an RV properly. If water remains in your pipes or tanks, freezing temperatures can cause cracks, burst plumbing, and expensive repairs. Whether you own a travel trailer or motorhome, this process ensures your plumbing, tanks, and appliances remain protected until spring.
Part 1: Draining the Water and Drying the Lines
- Drain the Fresh Water Tank – Open the petcock valve to empty your freshwater tank completely. Avoid draining the water heater yet; that’s done later.
- Empty the Black and Gray Tanks – Flush both tanks and clean them using a wand or tank cleaner before heading to your local dump station.
- Open All Faucets – Turn on all cold and hot water faucets, including sinks, shower, and toilet, to let trapped air escape.
- Attach a Compressed Air Adapter – Connect a “blowout plug” to the RV’s water intake fitting. This lets you attach an air compressor.
- Blow Out the Lines – Use an air compressor at 30 PSI (max 50 PSI) to push air through the pipes, clearing out leftover water.
- Close and Cap Everything – Shut all faucets, close the petcock, and remove the compressor setup.
Part 2: Adding Antifreeze to the Plumbing System
- Choose the Antifreeze Method – You can use a pump conversion kit or a hand pump. The bypass method uses less antifreeze.
- Disconnect the Fresh Water Tank Line – Remove the line to the pump and submerge it into a jug of RV-safe pink antifreeze (never green).
- Bypass the Water Heater – Turn off the heater, close its water lines, and open the bypass valve to prevent wasting gallons of antifreeze.
- Pump Antifreeze Through the System – Turn on the water pump and let it draw antifreeze into the plumbing.
- Run Each Fixture – Start from the highest point (kitchen sink) and move down to the lowest (outdoor shower). Run hot and cold taps until pink antifreeze appears.
- Add Antifreeze to Drains – Pour about 3 cups into every drain, toilet, washer, and shower trap.
- Reconnect the Line and Drain the Water Heater – Once antifreeze has circulated, reconnect the system and then drain the heater last.
Part 3: Completing the Final Details
- Remove Perishables and Valuables – Empty your RV of food, drinks, and personal items to prevent mold and rodent infestations.
- Fix Existing Issues – Repair leaks, broken seals, and mechanical issues before storage; sitting idle can worsen damage.
- Cover All Openings – Seal vents, exhaust pipes, and entry points to block pests.
- Relieve Tire Pressure – Place your RV on blocks to take the weight off tires and avoid flat spots.
- Cover with Breathable Fabric – Use a moisture-resistant yet breathable RV cover to prevent mold growth while keeping snow and debris out.
Maintenance Tips
- Inspect seals and roof vents before covering your RV.
- Label shut-off valves clearly for easier spring reactivation.
- Avoid parking directly on grass or dirt to reduce moisture absorption.
Things You’ll Need
- Air compressor (30–50 PSI)
- Blowout plug adapter
- 2–3 gallons of RV antifreeze (pink, non-toxic)
- Water pump conversion kit or hand pump
- Wrenches and hose caps
- Mesh vent covers
- Breathable RV cover
Winterizing your RV ensures peace of mind during the cold months. Once complete, you’ll avoid frozen plumbing, cracked tanks, and costly spring repairs — making your next adventure start smoothly when warm weather returns.



