Tshiring Jangbu Sherpa vividly remembers the lifeless body he encountered just meters from the summit of Mount Lhotse in May 2012. Working as a guide for a German climber, Sherpa came across the remains of Czech mountaineer Milan Sedlacek, who had perished a few days earlier. Little did he know that 12 years later, he would be part of a mission to retrieve such bodies from the treacherous high altitudes of the Himalayas.
The Challenge of Retrieval
Over the past century, over 300 climbers have died in the Everest region, with many bodies remaining on the mountain. This year, the Nepali government set a goal to retrieve five bodies from the “death zone,” located above 8,000 meters (26,247 feet). The mission involved a team of 12 military personnel and 18 Sherpas, subsisting on water, chocolate, and sattu, a mixture of chickpea, barley, and wheat flour, over a grueling 54-day operation.
Historical Context and Operation Details
The clean-up campaign, which began in 2019, saw significant progress this year. Major Aditya Karki, the operation’s leader, emphasized the need to address the pollution caused by garbage and dead bodies in the Himalayas. The team successfully retrieved four bodies and one skeleton, along with 11 tonnes of rubbish from lower altitudes.
Financial and Logistical Hurdles
Retrieving bodies from such extreme altitudes is a costly and dangerous endeavor. The military allocated five million rupees ($37,400) per body, with the operation requiring 12 people and significant oxygen supplies. The team had to work mostly at night to avoid disturbing other climbers and utilized a roping system to lower the bodies gradually.
Personal Sacrifices and Harrowing Conditions
Tshiring Jangbu Sherpa described the physical toll of the operation, including vomiting, coughing, and headaches due to the high altitude. The bodies, frozen and rigid, were difficult to transport, requiring careful maneuvering through rocky and icy terrain. It took 24 hours to bring Milan Sedlacek’s body to the nearest camp and another 13 hours to lower it further.
Identification and Final Steps
The bodies and skeleton were eventually flown to Kathmandu, where two were identified as Milan Sedlacek and American mountaineer Ronald Yearwood. The identification process for the remaining bodies continues, with the Nepali government coordinating with respective embassies.
Cultural and Personal Reflections
For Tshiring Jangbu Sherpa, who began his climbing career at 20 and has scaled Everest three times and Lhotse five times, the operation was a way to give back to the mountains that have brought fame and opportunities to many climbers. “By doing this special job of retrieving dead bodies, it’s my time to pay back to the Great Himalayas,” he said.
The mission not only aimed to clean up the Himalayas but also to provide closure for families and improve safety for future climbers. If unclaimed after three months, the bodies will be buried by authorities, ensuring that the fallen climbers are respectfully laid to rest.
This operation underscores the ongoing challenges and sacrifices involved in mountaineering and the efforts to preserve the sanctity and safety of the world’s highest peaks.
